Smokies over the 4th

“I need to do the section between Fontana Dam and Erwin TN and since I have a free week, I figured that I would get some of it done...

My plan would be to start at Fontana Dam on July 3rd, finishing at Hot Springs NC on July 10th.. This would be about 110 miles in 8 days. Pretty low mileage but the alternative would be to get all the way up to Erwin, and I think that I would rather enjoy this hike, then do another death march...

'32oz”

“Is there any way you could do it the week before the 4th? I could do it that week and have always wanted to do this area...”

“Sorry, no.. I am actually wrapping this thing around a boy scout trip (hence the weird dates)...

I will let you know when I am planning the final leg and maybe we can get that one done together..

'32oz”

“Next time, maybe!”

“I am a maybe for this one. Gotta see how the job situation works out.”

“maybe”

“I will have an itinerary within a week or two.. I have a few logistic issues I am working out...

'32oz”

“Ok here is the plan. I am still working on exact mileages/shelters etc but it will be relatively short days as I want to enjoy this hike.

I will be doing the section from Fantana Dam (FD) to Hot Springs (HS). It is 108 miles total. I don't know if we will be hiking N-S or S-N as I need to get permits lined up in the Smokies. (I am hoping to head North)

Plan to meet Thurs Night/Fri Morn (July 2/3) at either FD or HS We will then shuttle to the starting point and begin to hike.

We will hike until Midday Fri (July 10) at which point we will shuttle back to cars.

The average day is only 15 miles, however, I want to do some exploration on the side trails since I don't know when/if I'll be back. (besides at this pace even Spindle could join this hike..)..

'32oz”

“Does anyone know the best place to Park in Hot SPrings..

thanks,

'32oz”

“There are two public parking lots in Hot Springs. One is a forest service lot on Hwy 25 just outside of town, the other is right in the middle of town. Bluff Mountain Outfitters can point you in the right direction. I have parked at both places and had no problems with vandalism.”

“A 15 mile day coming out of fontana is a haul.”

“Haha 32oz, you're funny. Just wait...

Wish I could, but I won't be ready for this yet.

Ur killin' me.”

“Thanks Chilli,

The average will be 15, the first day will be a little less mileage... If we go North I have us staying at either the Mollies Ridge (11 miles) or Russell Field (13.5 miles) shelters.

Creek Dancer's original plan before we got snowed out, had a light day out of Fontana, so I kept that in mind.

I'm trying to work it so we can enjoy Cingman's Dome (maybe do Andrew's Bald), hit the Mt Cammerer Side Trail to the firetower, etc.

I'm also thinking that if anyone wants to join us at Clingman's Dome or Newfound Gap, that would be an option.

'32oz”

“Just kidding...

Heck the trip isn't until July, you'll be ready by then...

'32oz”

“Make sure you get the bear warning report. Mollies Ridge historically has some issues during the summer. They closed it a couple years ago for about a week.”

“Here is the bear/water warnings page. They update it two or three times a week:
[url]http://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/temproadclose.htm[url]

While the climb up from Fontana is tough, I don't think it is any worse than coming out of the NOC, and we did 16 miles that way. Spence Field is a better shelter than Mollies Ridge, but Russell Field (and Mt. Collins) are just Dumps.

Mollies Ridge


Russell Field


Clingmans dome is overrun with tourists who are complaining about the short paved walk up to the tower from the parking lot, so I wouldn't necessarily plan to spend a lot of time there. Charlies Bunion is a must see, and Mt Cammerer is probably my favorite place in all of the Smokies.

I may try and make part of this trip, I don't have my plans made yet for that weekend.
last edited: 6/04/09 7:50:24 AM”

“BTW: If you haven't called and gotten reservations yet, I would. The shelters will probably fill up fast over the holiday weekend.

GSMNP Permit Office 1-865-436-1231”

“You can reserve the first night for 30 days out. If you are making reservations for continuous nights, the 30 day rule doesn't apply to anything past the first night.

I.E. If your first night there is July 4th, you can reserve that night on June 4th, AND make the reservations for July 5th, 6th, etc.”

“Thanks guys, I was planning to call this afternoon.

Mocs, yeah I have hiked South to CLingman's dome already... the people in the tower kind of looked at me weird when they say me coming out of the woods...

It was fun watching everyone huff and puff getting from the parking lot to the top..

'32oz”

“"While the climb up from Fontana is tough, I don't think it is any worse than coming out of the NOC, and we did 16 miles that way."

+1 The hike from Fontana to Mollies wasn't too bad. You know what killed me? The short little spur trail from the A.T. up to Shuckstack Firetower. Hadn't eaten and I bonked hard heading up there to eat lunch. lol”

“Here is the itinerary for you all to pick apart..

Friday.. Fontana Dam to Russell Field Shelter 13 miles

Saturday Russel Field to Silers Bald 14.5

Sunday Siler's Bald to Mount Colins Shelter 8 miles - I want to do the side trip back out to Andrew's Bald

Monday Mount Colins Shelter to Tri Corner 20 miles (the longest day)

Tuesday Tri County to Davenport Gap 15 miles

Then the plan is:
Wednesday Davenport Gap to Ground Hog Creek 10 miles with a trek into Mountain Mommas for some resupple and a good burger

Thursday - Ground Hog Creek to Walnut Mountain 13 miles

Friday (up early) Walnut Mountain to Hot Springs 14 miles

The last 3 days are somewhat flexible


Permit is for 5 - Highmaintenance is a definate, so I have room for 3. Mocs, Crashbang, and Creekdancer are all maybe's.

I have a couple calls in for shuttles rates should we decide to go that route, but as of now, I plan to 'self shuttle'

'32oz”

“I miss the smokies:(”

“So come on up... We gots room for ya...

'32oz”

“Other than Russell Field and Mt. Collins being the two crummiest shelters on the AT in the park, looks like a good itinerary.

Oh, and Mountain Moma's is no more, so there is nothing at that interstate exit. You can somewhat resupply at Standing Bear Hostel or Curtis can take you in to town.”

“Bluff Mountain Outfitters in Hot Springs has reasonable shuttle rates and would probably make the most logistical sense for you anyways.”

“Ima gonna be at da beach over the 4th! WOOT.”

“Crap... I planned that short day so we could go in a grab a burger.. when did it close, I didn't see anything but 'chatter' about great cheeseburgers...

Yeah, I took note of your decription in your previous post, but I couldn't get the miles to work out like I wanted... I figured Russell Field wouldn't matter since its the first night, and Mount Collins forces me to go out and enjoy Andrews Bald for a while.. (Can't remember the last time that I planned an 8 mile day!!!!)

This leaves me the 69 miles from Hot Springs to Erwin, which I can do next year. Then all I have south of VA is Springer to Franklin...

thanks for the input.. Let me know if you can make any of this...

'32oz”

“Mocs thats one of the calls that I have in to.. Waiting to here what they say... (thanks again though)

'32oz”

“Curtis (Standing Bear) also does shuttles but I have no idea what his rates are. Nice guy though :)”

“Mountain Mommas closed a couple years ago. This time of year, you might get one of the rafters to give you a ride up to Hartford and you can eat at the Bean Tree Cafe. NOC has an outpost in Hartford and if the water is running the raft shuttles will be through there continually, all day.”

“I just noticed today that they closed Russell Field Shelter. I am not saying they might not re-open it by then, but often times they stay closed for some time.

...Bear Warnings - areas where bears are active. Please read What Do I Do If I See A Bear? for important safety information about bears.
• Backcountry Campsites 6, 13, 21, 24, 29, 35, 38
• Icewater Spring Shelter
• Mount Le Conte Shelter
• Trillium Gap Trail up to and around Grotto Falls
• Crooked Arm Ridge Trail (lower portion)

Campsites Closed
• Backcountry Campsites 10, 15, 40, 93, and Russell Field Shelter
”

“I am not surprised. I would expect Mollies Ridge to go on the list at least once this summer as well.”

“Yup this trip is imploding before it even gets off of the ground...

Yesterday it was showing bear activity there, but I figured in a month that would change.. Hopefully if they close it the bears will evacuate...

Oh well, backups would include Springer - Franklin, Erwin - South, Damascus - North or the NY/NJ stretch (although I guess by then the black flies will be out)..

As its all good....

thanks for the update though..

'32oz”

“You would think they would call and let you know if they closed the shelter and you had reservations there.

What I am surprised about is that CS# 113 isn't closed. It seems to be closed more than it is open.”

“Yall watch out for the fruminous brandersnatch - it's worse than bears for SURE!”

“They called and left a message.. of course now I can't get through...

'32oz”

“Permit has been changed so that we will camp at Mollies Ridge Shelter the forst night.. makes for a lighter first day, but an 17 miler on the second.. Still have a very light day planned on the third day so we sould be ok...

Cost to shuttle from Hot Springs to Fontana is $200.. We would have to be at Hot Springs at 6:00 am on the third...

Also, for the 'maybes', if you could let me know by the 23rd of June if you are going or not, I would appreciate it.. I don't want to hog 3 slots if they are not going to be filled..

Thanks,

'32oz”

“It is necessary to be armed with a vorpal sword or a winxy pistol, because one never can tell what a Bandersnatch might do.


last edited: 6/08/09 2:34:41 PM”

“Dawg what you all talking about snatch for?”

“Pics are up:

”

“Very cool pictures. The "sun breaking through the trees"........that is an awesome picture, I would have that one enlagred.

How was the weather?”

“It rained Saturday night, Sunday, and Sunday night, which is typical for the Smokies. Temps were comfortable, with highs in the low 70's and lows in the low to mid 50's.”

“Great pics!”

“That's sounds nice......that's about 20 degrees cooler than it was here. I would still like to go back and finish what I couldn't in April.”

“Mocs,

Great pictures! We were there the week before, did the Hazel Ridge Trail. It only rained Sunday night, briefly through the night...unheard of for the Smokies. I am really jealous you saw a bear! We saw fresh scat and fresh prints, got a few good whiffs, but never saw him! Darn!”

“I actually saw two, but didn't get the camera out quick enough on the other one. If you really want to see bears, apparently you need to hike Shenandoah National Park. I saw 11 when I did the AT through there a few weeks ago. That's as many as I have seen in hundreds of miles in the Smokies.”

“I have seen them in Shendoah...so many it becomes not a big deal! Deer, too. Waaaay too many deer!”

“great pics!!! looks like a great hike.”

“Hey mocs.. great hike!!!!!!!!! thanks for your all of your niput etc during the hike...

Pictures are being uploaded now, but after you left we stayed at Davenport Gap Shelter.. We got up early the next day planning to do 23 miles on Wednesday and 13 on Thursday...

Unfortunately Mother Nature intervined, and it rained most of the day.. As you will see from my pictures it was coming down pretty good as we crossed Max Patch (Snowbird was ok).. It then started thindering, so we wound up doing 18.6 and 18..

We hit the trail at 6:30 on Thursday and HM and I were in Hot Springs by 12:15... We were showered and had beers and burgers in front of us by 1:30...

I'll get a full report out later....

thanks again for your help...

'32oz”

“Having problems with webshots: here is what I down loaded so far...

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/573464599RjAurT

As for a trip report:

Highmaintenance, Lightfoot and I arrived in Hot Springs late Thurs night and stealth camped by the rail road tracks on the north side of town. We fell asleep to classic rock covers performed by the Local Band Chemistry...

On Friday we used Bluff Mountain Outfitters to shuttle us to Fontana Dam. Arriving at 8:45 we immediately hit the trail, beginning the lond assent up Shuckstack Mountain. Arriving at the unmarked trail leading up to the tower we took it and headed for the summit. The views were awesome!!!

Arriving at the Mollies Ridge Shelter we met Magnolia - a thru hiker in despair because she had failed to obtain a permit.. She was worried sick about the $125 fine. She moved on, leaving us to wait on Mocs, who had gotten a later start then us. Mocs finally arrived at about 6:00 pm. There were quite a few of us at the shelter.

Saturday was more of the same as we continued our climb towards Clingman's Dome. We met 4 dayhikers on Rocky Top and stopped to take a few pictures and enjoy a little break. By the time we hit Thunderhead MT, the clouds had started to roll in.

We once again ran into Magnolia, which became an ongoing saga as to her permit status.... We hit the Silers Bald Shelter and the weather sterted taking a turn for the worse.

I had planned a short hike on Sunday, hoping that with good weather we could hike out to Andrews Bald. Unfoertunately the weather didn't cooperate. By the time we got to Clingman's Dome it was rainy, windy and cold. We hiked up to the top of the tower and stayed their for about a minute. As we we descending we rain into Magnolia again. We had joked with her earlier that she could hitch into Gatlinberg and get a permit. She wound up finding a ride.

We arrived at Mt Collins Shelter wet and cold. Fortunatley we beat the monsoon that was to hit... I realize that tin roofs amplify the sound of the rain, but if you could have seen how fast the fire pit flooded.. it was unbelievable.... We ended up sharing the shelter with Doublecheck that night.

Sunday morning brought more of the same... Heavy mist, slight rain and a cold breeze. We got to Charles Bunion to find a mist and fog blanketing everything. Once in a while the fog would part, revealing what on a clear day would be a beautiful view.

Shortly after leaving the bunion the weather changed for the better.. Since we were now pretty much ridge walking, the views were breath taking. We had 20 miles scheduled that day and they just flew by as we enjoyed the sites. We spent that night at the tri-corner shelter which was also pretty crowded.

On Tuesday we awoke to decent weather and headed towards MT Cammerer. We had a realatively short 15 mile day planned so the 1.2 mile out and back didn't nake much of a difference here that we bade farewell to Mocs who had to end his hike that night. We spent over an hout on the lookout enjoying the views before heading on to Davenport Gap Shelter.

It was just HM Lightfoot and myself that night, and we made plans to do 23 miles the next day....

The rest of the hike was detailed above...


'32oz”